I have lost count of the number of times I have travelled to
Kerala. It may not be all that often really, but you know the feeling when you
come back to a place that feels like home. That is Kerala for me. A home that I
love to holiday in 😊 And here I was again.
This time, we visited three places, meticulously planned by
yours truly. It covered a hill-station, the back-waters and a beach
destination. And as always, once on the holiday, we threw the plan out the
window and let the place take over. Of course, we did have a few must dos – eat
well, have fun, sleep well, repeat. Something like that!
The holiday started with a major dampener when my luggage
got held back at Mumbai airport because it had a power-bank in it. We had just
landed in Kochi when I discovered this and was pretty bummed out about it. At
the airline counter, I met this old lady with her daughter who had come in from
Alleppey (about 3 hours away from Kochi) to collect their luggage (held back
for similar reasons) after 3 days! I freaked out!
After a lot of haggling, weight-throwing, threatening and
finally pleading, I managed to convince the airline officials to (very kindly)
try and get in my luggage on the very next flight from Mumbai. Having assured
this, I thanked them profusely and took couple of phone numbers to get in touch
with. After a quick meal at the airport food-court, we started off for Thekkady
– our first stopover on the holiday. Baani and Suni had been very patient
during the entire luggage episode. En route I prayed silently that this would
be the first and last hiccup on the trip. Looking back, my prayer worked. Because,
I did get my luggage the very next day. No more hiccups too, thereafter.
The road trip to Thekkady turned out longer than estimated
and a major portion of it meandered through the hills. There wasn’t much ascent
really, just a lot of zig-zagging. We stopped for a short tea-coffee break at
an Indian Coffee House. Did you know that there are at least 56 such coffee
houses, run by the coffee-producers board, across Kerala? The coffee was warm,
the chicken cutlets were succulent, the bread was soft and the service was prompt.
Good sign no.1 😊
Soon after, there were spells of mild rain that cooled the
weather significantly and made the rest of the long journey quite pleasant. Good
sign no.2.
By the time we reached Thekkady, it was well into the night
and we managed to make it to a decent apparel outlet just before the shutters
went down. And I bought myself few clothes to make it through till my luggage
arrived the next day. Good sign no.3. I was already feeling good!
It was quite late and we were tired. So, the three of us
quickly checked in, ordered some food to the room and hit the sack soon after.
In between all that, Baani went berserk about the cottage we were staying in.
Running around and jumping on the bed. Switching channels on the TV. Getting
inside the quilt and back out repeatedly. Kids, you know!
Next morning, we were awakened by a noise that sounded like
an alien invasion just outside the cottage. First, I thought I was dreaming.
Then I was terrified. Then I mustered some courage and called up front desk -
‘What is that sound all around our cottage? Can you hear it?’.
‘Just crickets, Sir’, pat came the reply.
‘Are you sure?’, pat came the doubt question.
‘Yes Sir, absolutely.’ I thought there was a chuckle. But I
can’t say for sure. Anyway, it was a sound that we would hear often in the
coming days, so I guess they were indeed harmless crickets. And a host of other
beings that I can only imagine.
Much later that morning, when the sounds had subsided, we
got out for breakfast at the restaurant and explored the resort. It was a
beautiful resort, built almost as if in the midst of jungle. Wide-trunked
trees, thick bright green foliage, long branches with scampering monkeys,
dozens of squirrels nut-hunting, different kinds of birds flying across,
beautiful wild flowers of myriad colours popping out of shrubs, winding paved
pathways snaking through the trees that rose and sloped down alternately, as we
walked around. We were in the midst of so much nature!
We got out that evening to catch shows of two Kairali (of
Kerala) performances, very close to the resort. Suni and I had seen these years
ago and we had loved it. Obviously, we wanted to watch them again and expose
Baani to them too. The first one, Kathakali, is the traditional dance form of
Kerala easily recognized by its theatrical costumes. The second one,
Kalaripayattu, is the traditional martial art form of the state and bears
origin to most of the martial arts emanating from Asia.
We reached the centre for the Kathakali performance well in
time, to watch the dancer being dressed up. This is a part of the show and an
elaborate ritual in itself. Do not miss it when you go to a Kathakali
performance next. The theatre was a small local auditorium with a rather small
stage, enough to host two dancers and couple of musicians on the side. Plastic
chairs, duly numbered, were neatly lined around the hall. As the performance
began, the narrator introduced the dance form and the nuances of various
expressions and body movements that Kathakali dancers conduct. During this
session, the dancer would try and involve the audience. How he did that is
something, only being there can help you understand 😊
Baani was thrilled to bits, when the dancer gestured to me and Suni at various
stages in this segment. In the last segment, we were treated to a short
mythological story performance by two Kathakali dancers for twenty minutes. The
whole show was as magical as it had been years ago.
Soon after the Kathakali show, we moved next door into
another theatre for the next show. Albeit, of a different kind of place. We had
to climb up one storey and enter a hall that had similar seats to the first
one. However, the arrangement was not in auditorium style. Instead, it was in
rectangular colosseum style circling the room and along the walls. In the
centre, was a 10-feet deep mud-pit, neatly floored, walled and decorated. At
one end of the pit, we could see an array of various weapons and lit diyas
(prayer lamps) and portraits of deities. The weapons, I could discern, ranged
from swords-and-shields to man-size staffs and steel-tipped lances. This is the
traditional pit in which Kalaripayattu is taught and practised.
As the audience sat quietly murmuring about what they were
seeing, in walked though a door on the ground floor, one after another, six
young men. They were all dressed in black vests and black dhotis (an Indian
lower garment worn by men) tightly wound around their waists and extending down
to the knees. They paid obeisance to the deities, the audience and then were
introduced by the narrator along with antecedents of the martial art of
Kalaripayattu.
Over the next one hour, the six young men regaled the crowd
with martial art techniques, fight sequences, awe-inspiring acts (some
involving fire) and several gravity-defying super-human stunts. As we all
watched in wonder, they never ceased to amaze. Most of the young men were in
their early twenties or late teens and had a decade of practice behind them
already, I was to later find out when I spoke to couple of them. The beauty of
Kalaripayattu is in the fluid dance-like movements that orchestrate the hardest
of blows in a real fight. All of us in that hall saw something quite
extra-ordinary display of discipline and calibre in that hall. You know that
feeling when you walk out of a hall after watching a hardcore action flick? Everyone
that evening, felt something like that after the performance. Whenever you go to Thekkady next, do not forget to catch
both these performances. There are several centres that conduct it. We watched
it at the Mudra Cultural Centre near the main market area.
The next morning, we went for an elephant ride at a little park called the Elephant Junction. If you have never sat on an Elephant, chances are you won’t either, wherever you currently reside. So, this is definitely a must-do activity. Riding an elephant first fills you fear and then sheer joy as the large, genteel animal takes small steps across the wild park, carefully guided by his Mahout (trainer). As the tree of us swayed from side to side atop the elephant, I wondered how warriors could actually fight back in the old ages, sitting atop one. I was simply happy that I didn’t fall off! (just kidding). We were also lucky to glimpse an elephant giving himself a bath with complete abandon. What a lovely sight indeed!
The next one-and-half days were spent in shopping for
hand-made chocolates and traditional spices at the market and eating authentic
Kairali sea-food at various places. Like explorers of yore, in search of the
elusive potion, we sought out fried fish at every place we ate. We got
something close couple of times but it was never what we really wanted. Several
years ago, on our honeymoon, we had eaten fried fish at Bali and were seeking
that taste again. We believed we would find it in Kerala. Anyway, it eluded us.
And of course, I went for a traditional Kerala ayurvedic
massage too at a local centre that was very zealously recommended by our
autorickshaw driver. This massage, unlike the Swedish and Thai therapies,
involves more of application of specially prepared herbal oils in long, quick
strokes. The oils are medicated and play the key role in repairing your body
from its fatigue and stress.
The next leg of our holiday was at Alleppey (locally known
as Alappuzha). Around four-and-half hours from Thekkady, Alleppey is a small
town right on the backwaters. The hotel we were staying in offered
breath-taking views of the vast backwaters and dozens of houseboats that keep
sailing from one side to the other. Alleppey may be a little township today,
but centuries ago, the local king had built a wide network of canals that ran
through the city and propelled it into becoming a major port of those times.
Industry and foreign investment from Europe flowed into the region and Alleppey
went on to become the world’s largest coir producing region, giving rise to
several prosperous families during a period of heavy growth. Given the
unlimited availability of coconut plantations in the region, it soon became a
rapidly growing business and generated employment and wealth.
One such family was that of Revi Karunakaran. Revi’s father
had made his fortune during the initial days of the industrialization of coir.
His son, Revi took the family business forward and grew it further. His wife
and Revi travelled around the globe and were leading families in the state’s
social and business circles. After his death, Revi’s wife converted their
2-storeyed palatial mansion into a museum showcasing their personal travel collections
and artefacts, from just about everywhere. Today, the museum houses the largest
personal collection on display, of Swarovski’s crystal collections and Lladro’s
porcelain collections (including several limited-edition works from both),
inimitable collection of ivory-ware, scores of statues made of precious stones
from Latin America to South-east Asia, immaculate silver-ware, antique
furniture from around the world, dozens of Tanjore paintings (that use gold
sheaths) and one really big vintage car – the Buick Super from the 1950’s! Not
many people know of this museum, but I guarantee you this – it ain’t like
anything you’ve seen before! So, do keep aside 2 hours for the visit to this
museum the next time you are around here.
After treating our eyes to the endless beauty at the Revi
Karunakaran museum, and a sumptuous lunch at a traditional Kairali restaurant,
we headed to the coir museum run by the Coir Board of India. The tickets here
are reasonably priced at Rs. 20 per head. But don’t land up with only some wads
of cash in your pocket. They accept ONLY cards! Yes, you read that right 😊
Being a central government entity, they are authorised only to accept card
payments and will swipe the machine for even Rs. 20. Once inside, we were ably
guided by one of the qualified guides who took us through the history, present
and expansion of the coir industry and its products. We saw machinery that
makes coir, we actually made coir ropes ourselves and were amazed at the vast
variety of applications of coir, including a house made completely from coir
products – fully water-proof and fire-proof! Half-an-hour later we emerged from
there and headed back to the hotel, satisfied and awed by all that we had seen
that day.
One of the other days, we took a houseboat ride from the
pier area. It was quite easy really. We walked down to the jetty, checked out
the boats lined up neatly, selected one, agreed to a price for the time and
simply got on board. It was one of the most memorable and pleasant rides of our
lives. Two hours of complete bliss on the backwaters, drinking fresh coconut
water en route, watching village life as we went past and lying down on very
comfortable lounge-beds, looking at the world around us. We saw houseboats the
size of mini restaurants, houseboats with 5 fully-equipped rooms and houseboats
under construction. By the way, one can book houseboats from 2 hours up to an
entire night. Whatever suits you, it’s a no-brainer must-do!
On our last day at Alleppey, we decided to step out into the
local market. It is something we love doing wherever in the world we travel. However,
we were soon disheartened by the crowded streets and hot sun. The market,
unlike Thekkady’s, was a regular daily market and not exactly touristy. So, we
dropped the plan and decided to head to a café. I opened Google and shortlisted
two choices that looked like our kind of places. I hailed a rickshaw and
navigated the route using Google maps. But as luck would have it, we reached
the café only to discover it shut! Not ones to be disheartened, we bravely continued
to café no. 2. It was shut too!
Finally, now with heavy hearts we headed back to the hotel.
About 300 metres before our hotel, we stopped at a haveli-themed hotel to have
a change of cuisine and do lunch there. With little expectation, we stepped in
an ordered our meal. The usual mostly – curd rice, a vegetable curry, a chicken
dish. And of course, we asked if they make fried fish? The server said, ‘Yes, we
do’. 'Well, can you get us one of that too? Nothing fancy. Just basic fried fish’,
I explained. He replied, ‘Sure’. We then ran through our photos from the previous
day while Baani made herself at home running around and creating imaginary
characters in the palace-like environs. After what seemed quite long, the food
arrived. Imagine our complete shock, when the fried fish turned out EXACTLY what
we had been seeking for the last one week! Finally, our foodie souls had been
fed satisfactorily 😊 I remembered something I had read recently –
When you stop searching for something so hard, it finds you. Well, the fried
fish certainly found us hungry mouths!
Later that evening, we pranced about in the pool while
stormy winds and rain lashed at the resort and heralded the onset of monsoons
in Kerala. We made it back to room from the pool, with help from the hotel
staff, soaked to the bone. It was like nature’s signal – time to move on.
We started the next day for Poovar, our final stopover in
Kerala. We travelled from Alleppey to Poovar in about four-and-half hours
covering the journey comfortably, because the roads are so nice. Also, since it
was Sunday, we encountered minimal traffic. We stopped at a place en route for
a light bite which was a nice, quaint heritage hotel that served us some simple
tasty food and had very lovely Ravi Verma painting prints that adorned the
walls. One of them, of Ravi Verma’s daughter and his grandson, reminded me of
my brother’s pictures from his childhood. I am a huge fan of Raja Ravi Verma’s
work and believe that few others have brought female beauty alive as well as he
did.
The Poovar resort was extremely nice with cosy round-form cottages that had lovely verandahs up front. It was nestled in one
corner of the small sleepy village of Poovar, which is about an hour’s drive
from Trivandrum, the capital city of Kerala. Since this was the last part of
our vacation, we decided to just chill at the resort for most of our stay
there. We did one back-water ride, only because one of the resort management
staff insisted that it would be very different from the one we had done at
Alleppey. And boy, was he right!
It was an amazing experience for couple of hours through the
wild and thick Amazon-like backwaters and then a short stop-over at the Poovar
beach where the waters were very choppy that morning. We crossed some
restaurants housed on the lake and cooled down with sweet coconut water in the
idyllic surroundings.
Most of our remaining short time at Poovar, was spent time
in the pool, in our cottage or at the spa. It was a nice way to conclude our
Kerala sojourn. Calm, quiet and relaxed.
As we packed our bags on the last night at Poovar, each of
us felt the holiday should have been longer. Just a tad bit. It had been one of
our most rejuvenating vacations ever. And what better than the feeling that it
should go on for just one more day 😊 Well, there is always the next time.
As we passed through the village of Poovar next morning to
the airport at Trivandrum, we could see early signs of families waking up. A
stray cat yawning here, a stretching dog there, the odd shopkeeper opening his
shop’s shutter, couple of young women awaiting their bus to work, fisherfolk
returning home with the night’s catch and a few people just about starting
their day. Baani dozed off during the ride, while Suni and I were lost in
thoughts and memories of the past eleven days and return to our lives back in
Maximum City.
They say, travel teaches you more about life than classrooms
and books. I agree. Every time you travel, you are more open, curious and
seeking amazement than you do in the daily rigmarole of life. When you travel, you
do what your heart says. Not what you need to or have been instructed to. You
follow your instinct. You watch and listen. You talk to people. Actually talk,
not chat or message.
And in doing all of these, you discover more of the world around you. And yourself within.